Useful Vocabulary in Leather Goods
Tom & Eva presents a collection of commonly used vocabulary in the realm of leather goods in this section. This compilation aims to aid you in better assisting your customers and elucidating the intricacies of Tom & Eva bags that you offer in your store.
A
Agencement (Layout): The overall design of a bag, encompassing pockets, closures, connections, and various functionalities.
Ardillon (Buckle Pin): A lengthy metal piece with a pointed end that hinges on a loop. Positioned on a shoulder strap, strap, or belt to secure the leather component.
Adossé(e) (Back Positioned): Positioned on the rear of the bag, at the back.
Anse(s) (Handles): Handles often appear in pairs and are intended for diverse methods of carrying the bag, whether over the shoulder or by hand. Typically crafted from leather, they may be rigid or flexible. They distinguish from a shoulder strap designed for crossbody or shoulder carrying and the handle used for hand carrying. The latter is consistently longer and more flexible than handles.
Attaché-case (Briefcase): Also known as a briefcase or document case, it is often flat, rigid in structure, and employed for convenient document transport.
B
Boucle, bouclerie (Buckle, Hardware): A metallic part for fastening. Perforated to insert the leather piece - strap, belt, strap, shoulder strap - either for adjusting the desired length or for functioning as a closure when equipped with an ardillon to secure the leather component. All parts with this type of function fall into the "hardware" category.
Bretelles (Straps): Adjustable straps situated at the rear of a backpack or satchel to facilitate back-carrying.
Bord franc (Raw Edge): An unhemmed leather piece that displays the edge or cut. Finished with wax to protect the edge.
Besace (Satchel): Also referred to as a satchel, it resembles a haversack in its design. It closes with a front flap and is frequently worn crossbody.
Bandoulière (Shoulder Strap): A long, adjustable leather strap for crossbody or shoulder carrying of a bag. It's detachable and affixed at two points on the bag, usually on the sides.
Bride (Strap, Latch): A leather connecting piece with hook-and-loop or snap button closure for a pocket or wallet.
Basane (Lining): Refers to a lining made of lambskin or sheepskin. These hides are used for their durability and flexibility.
Bord remplié, retourné, rembordé (Turned Edge, Rolled Edge): The assembly of two leather pieces with tucked edges, and the stitching is concealed on the inside, leaving no visible edge.
Bouton de col (Collar Button): A metal object used for fastening a strap with a cylindrical pin inserted into a cavity, such as a hole.
Bandeau (Band): A decorative part made of printed silk located on straps or interwoven within metal chains.
C
Canvas: Refers to the cotton or hemp fabric used for making bags.
Courroie (Strap): A leather or fabric piece serving as a strap for a bag. It's a technical term frequently used by tanners and leather producers, but is rarely used to present a bag.
Compagnon (Companion): A wallet, also known as an "all-in-one" or catch-all wallet for women. Its large size accommodates numerous items like cards, coins, and papers. Tom & Eva offers various types of companions in the small leather goods section.
Clips or Tuc: The term for a metal or plastic piece used as a clasp.
Croûte de cuir or refente de cuir (Split Leather): Leather from which the grain layer, the upper part of the skin called the "Fleur," has been removed, and a thick protective pigmented material has been applied.
Cuir glacé (Glazed Leather): Leather coated with a protective layer like varnish, called glazing, to render imperfections on the skin imperceptible, protecting the leather while imparting a smooth and glossy appearance. However, this process may reduce flexibility.
Cuir gras (Oiled Leather): Refers to leather nourished with oil by more than 15%. It often displays a marbled appearance. This process creates heavy types of leather primarily used for crafting shoes, horse saddlery items, and select clothing.
Cuir foulonné (Tumbled Leather): Technique used to soften leather by treating it in a drum.
Cuir nappa (Nappa Leather): Denotes leathers onto which a synthetic protective layer has been applied to rectify any existing defects. Smooth leathers are typically categorized as nappa leathers.
Cuir nubuck or daim or velours (Nubuck Leather): Refers to leather whose grain, the upper part of the skin or dermis, has been finely sanded to achieve a soft, velvety texture.
Cuir sellier (Saddle Leather): Sellier leather boasts exceptional tactile qualities, rendering it rare. It has a minimum thickness of 1.8 to 2 mm. The tanning process combines traditional methods with modern technologies. The leather is worked throughout its mass, much like horse saddles. Over time, this leather type develops an unmatched patina, rendering each piece entirely unique.
Cuir suède (Suede Leather): Suede leather, or simply suede, is a category of soft leathers made from sheepskin or lambskin, with the flesh side shaved to give it a velvety appearance.
Cuir grainé (Grained Leather/Pebbled Leather): Grained leather features a textured surface with reliefs artificially created by the tanner using a mold. Grained leathers may include printed patterns resembling crocodile or python.
Curseur (Slider): The movable part of a zipper used for opening and closing it.
D:
Dimensions: Dimensions are always provided in the same order: Product seen from the front, length x height x depth.
Dragonne (Wrist Strap): A leather strap utilized for carrying the bag or pouch on the wrist. It has a carabiner on one end for attaching keys. It is also affixed to one end of the bag.
Démasquer (Polish): To polish. This process entails giving a satin or glossy finish to the leather by rubbing or polishing it.
Doublure (Lining): The interior lining material of a bag or other items like clothing.
Denim: A cotton fabric commonly used in making jeans, also known as "denim." Its name "twill weave" stems from the weaving technique employed for this fabric.
Duffle: Also referred to as a "duffle bag," derived from English, it pertains to a travel bag.
E
Embossé (Embossed): Denotes leather marked with heat to create a raised pattern.
Estampille (Stamp): A raised relief marking or label on an identification plate, often used for authentication of its origin.
Écharpe (Scarf): Refers to a lengthy and narrow accessory with dimensions ranging from 20 to 60 cm in width and approximately 170 cm in length.
F
Fermoir (Clasp): A mechanism, typically metallic, used to fasten two parts together, allowing the bag to be opened and closed at will. It can be a push-button mechanism for a zipper closure or a truck clasp for briefcases, for instance. Alternatively, it can be a rotating mechanism like a twist clasp. It may also include a key lock.
Fleur or pleine fleur (Full-Grain Leather): The "fleur" is the upper part of the animal's skin, known as the dermis. Pigmented fleur results from coloring the leather using a solution containing pigments. Corrected fleur refers to leather that has been worked on to eliminate or correct any defects.
Foulonné (Fulled Leather): Refers to leather that has been softened using a fulling process involving agitation in a barrel or vat. This process can result in veining, marbling, or a wrinkled appearance.
Fermoir twist (Twist Clasp): A metallic rotating closure mechanism used for securing a bag, often positioned on the front flap of a bag to close it or on an exterior pocket.
G
Gibecière (Satchel): A satchel features a front flap and is generally worn across the body using a shoulder strap. It is commonly favored by hunters to carry game.
Garniture(s) (Trimming): The term "trimming" defines the various decorative parts of a bag, such as handles, straps, shoulder straps, reinforcements, and straps.
Glissière (Zipper): Corresponds to the sliding closure mechanism, also known as a zipper or zip fastener. It enables the opening and closing of a bag or pocket from the inside or outside. It's commonly found on leather goods, clothing, and occasionally shoes.
H
Holster: A holster, of Anglo-Saxon origin, draws inspiration from law enforcement equipment used for carrying firearms. It appears as a flat pouch with a strap, designed to be worn on the chest.
L
Laptop: Refers to a bag intended for carrying a laptop or tablet. The term "laptop" is derived from English and signifies "portable."
Liaison (Connection): Refers to all the parts of a bag, whether detachable or fixed, that link two sections together.
Lin (Linen): Linen is a fabric derived from a plant belonging to the Linaceae family in Eurasia. It is cultivated for its textile fibers, hypoallergenic and insulating properties, resulting in durable and valued fabrics.
Lurex: Lurex is a polyester fabric coated with a metallic layer, imparting a shiny appearance. The metallic layer can be made of aluminum, silver, or gold.
M
Mousqueton (Carabiner): A metal ring, often removable, with a simple opening used to attach a strap or shoulder strap to a ring fixed on the bag and designed for this purpose.
P
Point sellier (Saddle Stitch): The strongest type of stitch achieved through a sewing process using two needles for a two-thread stitch.
Passepoil (Piping): Piping is a strip of fabric or leather applied along the edge of a piece to protect it and enhance its aesthetic appeal. It can be sewn or welded.
Patine (Patina): Refers to leather that, through aging, acquires a unique tint infused with color nuances. This effect can be achieved manually by applying different shades of dye in multiple layers.
Partition: Refers to the inner part of a bag with multiple separated compartments.
Poche plaquée (Patch Pocket): Also known as an applied pocket, it is a flat pocket without any closure.
Poche à soufflets (Accordion Pocket): An accordion pocket is a flat pocket with integrated folds to make it expandable based on what is placed inside.
Poche de séparation zippée (Zippered Divider Pocket): An interior pocket in a bag with a zipper closure for compartmentalization.
Pochon (Pouch): A protective cloth bag used to store and safeguard a bag, particularly from dust.
Pilot Case: A pilot case or trolley case is a hybrid between a briefcase and a business bag. It features multiple interior compartments for clothing and personal items, as well as professional equipment like a computer. It often includes wheels for easy transport.
Picot: Metal pieces placed underneath the bag to protect the external bottom when it's placed down.
Polaire (Fleece): Fleece fabric is a synthetic material often used to make warm and insulating clothing for winter or cold periods. Its performance is similar to wool but lighter to wear.
Polochon (Duffle Bag): The polochon bag is a travel bag, typically long and round, equipped with handles and an adjustable, detachable shoulder strap.
Porte-adresse or porte-étiquette (Luggage Tag Holder): An accessory attached to bags and luggage where owner's contact details are affixed for identification.
R
Rembordage (Edge Painting): The folding of two leather pieces whose edges have been thinned to enable assembly through either gluing or stitching.
Rivet, riveté (Rivet): A fastening and decorative element introduced by pressure to securely connect two pieces of leather or metal. Rivets are commonly used to attach handles, straps, rings for carabiners on straps, briefcase straps, etc.
S
Sangle, sanglon (Strap): Sanglon is the shortened version of sangle (strap). It is used to close a bag and is also useful for shoulder or crossbody wear. It takes the form of a strip with varying lengths and widths.
Soufflets (Accordion Gusset): A soufflet, also known as an accordion gusset, is a pocket with pleats to increase its capacity based on the volume of what is placed inside. On a bag, it defines the side part that determines its depth, as seen on briefcases and satchels.
Surpiqué(e), surpiqure (Topstitching): A visible stitching that adds an aesthetic touch and reinforcement to the piece being sewn.
Sac à dos borne (Single Compartment Backpack): A term used for a backpack with a single interior compartment.
Sangle à bagage (Luggage Strap): Refers to a strap designed to secure luggage. It can come with a TSA-type code lock or simply clip on.
Satin: A fabric with a smooth and shiny surface. Originally made solely from silk, satin is now produced from linen, wool, cotton, silk, and even synthetic materials.
Sequin: A flat, round, disc-shaped bead used for decorating bags and clothing.
Sergé (Twill): Twill gets its name from its weaving pattern characterized by diagonal lines on both the right and wrong sides.
Soie (Silk): Silk is a particularly strong animal fiber that remains flexible. It is produced by certain caterpillars such as the mulberry silkworm or the apple leaf roller.
Spinner: Refers to suitcases of varying sizes equipped with a telescopic handle and wheels for easy transport.
T
Tampon, tamponné (Tamponing): A finishing process where leather is dyed and nourished gradually using a cotton wick or tampon. This process results in a refined appearance with a delicately patinated effect.
Tuck or tuc: A mechanism found on a strap or flap used for closing a bag or briefcase using a push-button, generally metallic or brass. It locks using a stop, known as a "pontet," made of the same material as the button.
Tout-en-un or compagnon (Wallet Organizer): This accessory, commonly used by women, is a large wallet or purse that serves as a single place to store essentials like papers, cards, coins, bills, and checkbooks.
Trolley: Refers to the telescopic handle present on a wheeled suitcase.
Twill: Refers to the same weaving pattern as "sergé" (twill) fabric, commonly used in denim.
V
Velours (Velvet): A fabric with one side sheared and the other covered in raised, tightly packed fibers.
Z
Zip, zippé (Zipper): A zipper, also known as a zip fastener or zip, consists of fabric strips with interlocking teeth that slide open and closed. "Éclair" is the brand name of a French zipper manufacturer. It is used for fastening bags, clothing, and sometimes shoes.